也许你能想起某次当所有事情都很顺,而你全神贯注于攀登的经验。如果这样,那么你就经历了攀登中最棒的经验:流畅的状态,通常也称为“进入状况”。经历过的人描述这种近乎神奇的经验会带来自信心增强、意识力提升、注意力完全集中、以及几乎不费力的动作。下列的提示能帮助你更常体验到流畅的感觉,并且使你在每次接触岩壁时更加专注。
Seek a challenge-skill balance. This is the golden rule of flow. If your hardest route is 5.10a, spending all day attempting a 5.12 will only result in frustration. Conversely, you'll likely get bored climbing a 5.6. Instead, seek routes that are both challenging and attainable. For example, you might best experience flow
while climbing a 5.9. 寻求技巧与挑战性之间的平衡。这是流畅度的黄金准则。如果你最难的路线是5.10a,那么即使花费一整天去尝试5.12也只会带来挫败。反之,爬个5.6又会让你觉得无聊。因此,请找些既有挑战性又有能力完成的路线。例如在爬5.9的时候可能让你觉得爬起来最顺畅。
Set achievable, process-orientated goals. Process-orientated goals stem from the activity itself, rather than external factors. The goal of executing a perfect layback is more conducive to flow than wanting to burn off your partner or impress a spectator. Achievable goals are in your direct control. "Not grabbing the quickdraw in the middle of that scary runout" is achievable, whereas "sending the route this try" is not.
以过程为取向,订立可达成的目标。以过程为取向的目标起源于你所从事的活动本身,而非来自于外在的因素。完成一个完美的layback比企图吓死确保者或吸引观众来得有意义。可达成的目标则是由自己直接掌握。“在中途又没力又恐怖的时候也不要拉快扣”是可达到的目标,但是“这次就要完攀这条路线”就不尽然了。
培养一项好的攀登习惯。这些习惯曾经使一些最优秀的运动家有更好的表现。这套程序和习惯能帮助你拥有控制力、将注意力灌注至手的动作、并且摆脱外在无谓的胡思乱想和忧虑。一项攀岩者的攀登习惯可能包含三分钟的路线观察,接着绑绳子,抓粉,然后告诉自己一个有用的字,例如“专注”。这个习惯必须符合个人所需,而且只有当你已经练习到习惯成自然的时候才能发挥它的效用。